Sewing Basics 7: A Basic Center-Front Zipper

Zippers add an extra touch and fit to a garment that allows it to have more of a tailored look. Inserting a zipper also helps us to get in and out of our garments comfortably, and allows us to use fabrics that have no stretch in their fibers. For example, a zipper inserted down the center front or side of a pair of jeans or trousers allows us to open the fitted waistline so we can put them on, zip them up and wear them securely. The same thing with necklines, allowing us to ease our shirts over our heads and zip to fit.

There are different types of zipper insertion styles, like the invisible zipper which is stitched in a way that conceals it within the seam and without a visible top stitch. An exposed zipper is a trendy look popular nowadays where the entire track is completely shown.

In this tutorial, we are going to learn how to insert a basic centered style zipper. Ready to have some fun? Me too, let's get started!

For this exercise you will need a couple of strips of scrap fabric at least 10 inches long, a 7-inch sized zipper (a longer size will work also and we will remedy it don't worry), a ruler or measuring tape, a tailor's chalk or pencil, and of course a seam ripper and your iron and ironing board for pressing as we go.

With right sides facing each other, measure about 6 inches from the top of the fabric and make a mark there using your tailor's chalk or pencil.

Next stitch straight down to form a seam.
Note: when you get to the chalk mark go back and forth a bit while sewing, this is where your zipper end will be and you want it to stay together securely.

Press open the seam.
Tip: Your seam will open easily if you pinch the seam and pull it away from the iron while pressing, as shown in pic the above.

Now, take your zipper, lay it face down onto the seam you pressed open. Measure 6 inches down again and make another mark.

Now you can carefully baste a few stitches down both sides of the zipper to secure it in place. You can also use a few dots of fabric glue and pins. When you sharpen your skills, you may be able to take the plunge without applying this step at all, but for now let's play it safe.

Turn over your work and make another mark. "Gee whiz, why so many marks?" Well, there's a method to my madness here lol, I'd rather see you make a mark instead of frustrate yourself later trying to eyeball 6 inches from the top.

Oh yeah, please do not try to insert your zipper without using a zipper foot. Hopefully your machine has come with one, if not, it would be best to get one. Without using one you will surely become frustrated trying to maneuver or navigate around the zipper track with a regular sized foot.

Sew down one side, across the pencil or chalk mark , then back up to the top (try not to stitch over the baste stitches if you've used them).
Note: Go back and forth a little while sewing to secure at the top sides and bottom center of the zipper, and be careful not to break your needle when stitching over the zipper's track at the chalk mark.

Pull out your baste stitches if you've used them, and press. Your work should look like the pic above. Now, onto the next step, don't worry we're almost there.

Using a seam ripper, carefully and patiently open the seam to reveal the zipper, and remove all the popped strings.

If you've used a zipper longer than 7 inches, just cut the excess off an inch down from the stitching. Tip: using pinking shears here will make a nice finish and prevent fraying.

And you have just inserted a basic center-front zipper! How cool was that?
Now the next skirt or shirt pattern you want to buy that calls for a zipper won't look so difficult to try.